The Canal du Centre Part 2: Genelard to Montceau-les-Mines

1st June 2023

It was another beautiful morning with the promise of a hot day ahead. We had a logistical issue: the car was in Digoin where we had left the boat during our visit home, today we were heading further down the canal to Montceau-les-Mines and tomorrow the boys would be setting off early to drive back to England.

We needed  to get the car by this evening so we could reprovision heavy stuff like diesel and water before they left, and then they could set off as soon as they were ready on Friday.

Igor checked Google Travel. There was a direct train from Genelard to Digoin at 11.36.  This would be the most efficient journey, at any other time there would be at least one change and the journey would be a lot longer. We asked Vik and Matt if they'd mind getting the car and meeting us later. They didn't have to be asked twice.

We had no idea how long our journey to Montceau-les-Mines would take and assumed that they would be much quicker than us. I thought that when they got there they might be able to walk down the canal path for a couple of km and meet us on the boat to enjoy the last of the journey.  

We all walked into town and found the station. A friendly cyclist confirmed that the train was running and which platform to use as there  were no timetables on display at the station. We then parted ways, leaving the lads to explore town for a couple of hours until the train came.

We set off in the boat at around 10 am. The lock was literally just around a bend from the mooring and a lock keeper was waiting for us. He was a tall man probably in his 30s, black hair tied back in a pony tail and several gold teeth on view.  He tightened the bolts holding the fence around the lock to the ground as he waited for us to rise up. He told us that another boat was heading down stream so we will meet it at some point.

We left the lock and went into a cutting faced with blocks of limestone.  Phrases had been stuck to the walls, cut out in (maybe) metal. The one I remember is 'Combien de pierres?', asking how many stone blocks were used. My guess was 'a mind boggling number' and that's as close as I'll go.

On the other side was a cut out of a barge. Very different to the usual scenery.

It was about 2.5km to the next lock, 15 Ciry. The lock keepers cottage has been converted to a gîte, and a woman was beating carpets and sweeping as we passed through, getting it ready for her guests. The lock keeper was here again, and at lock 14, also called Ciry.

This lock didn't have a cottage, but we passed by a Museum of Briqueterie on our way to it. Behind the brick fence we saw columns of bricks, in the grounds of a grand building faced with fancy brickwork. You've guessed, haven't you? Briqueterie means 'brickworks'.  The more I think about it the more I think this is a marvellous idea. Most of our houses are made of bricks, why not celebrate them? Craftsmanship is grossly undervalued. I thought I'd taken a picture but annoyingly I didn't.

The promised downstream moving boat was waiting outside 14, also called Ciry.

The lock keeper was there too.  He pulled the handle to start the lock cycle. Nothing. He tried again. Nothing. He tried again, and Igor said 'Alexa, close the gate!'. The gates started closing. The lock keeper roared with laughter. Hope he doesn't hear the same joke too often this season, but I have to say Igor's timing was 100% perfect.

We met him again at 13 Azy. He asked us where we were going and reminded us that the locks close for lunch from 12-1.  It was 11.40,  but we pressed on and arrived at lock 12, confusingly for an English speaker it's name is Four, at 11.55, no keeper in sight. We started the emptying process and by 12.09 we were out, even though it was just past midday. We'd thought we might be 'trapped' in the lock over lunchtime which would have been convenient as it would save having to moor to a bank to eat. It seems that the trick is to have started the cycle before 12, not to have finished it.  

There was a lot of water in the lock by the time it was full, the levels in this canal are pretty high. Most of the time we are getting 1.4-1.6m, rarely 1.3m. Contrast that to the Canal du Briare, where we spent so much time barely afloat in a metre of water.

We didn't stop for lunch. There were no convenient mooring bollards and we didn't want to put stakes in the side in case it was shallow, plus it's a lot of faffing around for a half hour stop. Instead we just motored very slowly and ate on the move.

In the same way that we were late entering 12 Four we were early into 11 Vernois, arriving at 12.55, though we waited a few minutes to pull the cord. This lock was unattended too and again, it didn't make us wait until the hour to function.

Now there was only one lock left, 10 Chavannes, a mere 300m further on. It was just after 1pm when we entered it. We were surprised that the trip had been so quick. This was down to the lack of weeds and the consistent depth, as yesterday.

The first intimation you have that you are approaching Montceau-les-Mines is the massive cooling tower from a disused thermal power station. It's (her?) name is Lucy, and it dominates the skyline. It stopped producing power in 2015, after the mines closed down. New French word of the day: the French word for mines is 'mines'.

For the final few kilometres to Montceau-les-Mines the canal has busy roads along both sides. I kept an eye out for the boys, who were last heard of in McDonalds but should be well on their way to us by now. Instead of them arriving before us it looked like we might get there first.

Before the marina you have to pass under three lifting bridges, two of which are for vehicle traffic and the last one is a footbridge.  As we approached the first we saw the cars queueing thanks to us, waiting for the bridge to open. It's a graceful royal blue metal structure which lifts from one side to allow boats through.

We waited for our own traffic light to turn green, and then swanned past the waiting cars. The second bridge didn't start to open until the first bridge was properly closed and traffic flowing again. It had a similar arrangement, a blue bridge lifting from the side, but it was even bigger and more impressive.

The final footbridge is a much more delicate structure and rises from both sides simultaneously. You can see the marina through it, and it looked very promising.

We found a nice wide berth with a decent sized and stable pontoon and tied up by 14.05.  We are pretty surprised at how quick this leg of the trip has been, we thought it would take us a week to get here given the number of locks and the distances. Automated locks are much quicker!

The boys  joined us a short while later and then we went for a walk around town. Montceau-les-Mines is the first decent sized town we've stayed at for a while. There is a pedestrianised shopping street and pretty much everywhere is open. It has a lively buzzy feel, and in the hot afternoon sunshine it felt as though we were somewhere south and quite exotic.

If only the plane trees had been palm trees the illusion would be perfect, but they have been topiarised into such formal shapes they may as well be palms.

There are lots of big supermarkets within a 5 minute drive of the marina - LeClerc, Aldi, Grand Frais - and the LeClerc has a garage where the diesel was reasonable. The downside is that some of them close at 7pm so you have to be organised.

After we'd eaten dinner we sat on the boat enjoying the evening warmth. The sound of music and people enjoying themselves drifted over on the night air so we decided to investigate. We went back to the main street and it was full of people with glasses of wine, outside a wine bar/restaurant called Le Bagatelle.

At first we thought we might be gatecrashing a wedding as there were people of all ages from children to old folks. Then we realised that several women were in white, and not a bridal gown in sight. It turns out that it was the opening event for the bar, and people certainly seemed to be enjoying it. If the boys didn't have to be up early for their long drive home we'd certainly have stayed longer.

So tomorrow it'll be back to just Igor and me, see you then.

You can comment (or ask questions) at Libra Sail | Facebook